One of the great things about toe-up socks is that you can try them on as you go! The directions and patterns here call for working what is called a “short-row” heel, rather than a heel flap. However, heels for toe-up socks can be worked in many other ways as well, just as with cuff-down socks. You may want to explore other options and plug them into these patterns.
The yardage amount provided by the online calculator assumes that you are crocheting mid-calf-length socks. If you are working ankle socks or knee socks, or planning a border at the top of the socks, refer to Calculating Yardage for Cuff-Down Socks on page 186 for advice on how to adjust your formula.
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setup: Chain , work around chain, on both sides.
toe: Increase stitches over rounds.
foot: Work foot for rounds before beginning gusset.
gusset: Increase stitches over rounds.
heel: Work heel, decrease until stitches remain.
leg: Work leg for rounds.
add-ons: Add any edge, border, or ribbing you’d like to include at top of leg.
finishing: Weave in ends and block.